Should I choose an acrylic or glass aquarium?
-We at Aquart recommend acrylic for the majority of our customers. Here are some major reasons why acrylic is a better choice than glass when constructing aquariums.
Acrylic is lighter than glass making it less expensive to ship. Acrylic is stronger than glass and does not break or crack. Acrylic distorts light less than glass offering a better view of the aquarium contents. Acrylic insulates better than glass. Acrylic seams are stronger than glass seams. Acrylic can be repaired easily if scratched. Acrylic can be custom shaped into a wide variety of forms.
At what temperature should the aquarium be maintained?
-On average, most tropical aquariums do best with temperatures ranging from 23 to 28 degrees Celsius (73-82 degrees Fahrenheit)
What kind of lighting is required?
-The type of lighting depends upon what kind of animals you desire to keep. One of the most important factors is the light intensity. A high color temperature is also important. Aquarium lights with color temperatures ranging between 5,000 to 7,000 degrees Kelvin would give excellent colors to a marine system. Another factory is the "Color Rendering Index" or CRI. The CRI of sunlight is 100 and a high CRI on an artificial light means that it is very close to replication the colors of natural sunlight.
How is salinity determined in a marine aquarium?
-Salinity is a measure of the total amount of dissolved salts in seawater. It is measured in parts per thousand (ppt or 0/00). The average salinity of the ocean is around 34 to 37 ppt. Marine aquariums are measured in specific gravity. Specific gravity may be defined as the ration of the density of the liquid to the density of water. The specific gravity of seawater at 35 ppt is 1.026. The proper range for a marine aquarium is 1.020 to 1.026. Refractometers, hydrometers, and test kits can be used to estimate salinity in marine systems.
What is pH?
-pH is an abbreviation for pondus hydrogenii which also stands for "Power of Hydrogen" or "Weight of Hydrogen." pH is a measure of the effective acidity or alkalinity of a solution. Pure water has a pH value of 7. The pH scale usually is considered as extending from 0 to 14. As the scale drops towards 0 the solution becomes more acidic. As the scale rises toward 14 the solution becomes more basic. Small pH testing kits are available at most aquarium shops. These kits have color codes to indicate the approximate pH.
What kind of filtration is needed?
-There are three major types of filtration used in marine aquariums -- mechanical, chemical and biological. A healthy mixture of all three types of filtration is advised. Biological filtration utilizes bacteria to break down waste material in the water. Mechanical filtration filters out small particles in the water as they pass through a filter media. Chemical filters utilize materials like activated carbon to remove dissolved molecules from the water. AquaticArt can help you determine what type of filter you need for your specific system.
Freshwater or Saltwater?
-The most colorful fish are found in saltwater habitats. A saltwater aquarium is more difficult to maintain than a freshwater aquarium. Saltwater aquariums require more monitoring and can be difficult to keep clean. A freshwater system, on the other hand, is much easier to maintain. A weekly cleaning will usually suffice to keep the appearance looking good. There are many freshwater fish that are just as colorful as marine fish and will do very well in a home aquarium. When setting up an aquarium for the first time a freshwater aquarium is suggested.
What do I need to set up my aquarium?
-An aquarium of 50 gallons or more is recommended for marine systems. For a freshwater system it is recommended to begin with a 20 gallon aquarium.
-Filters utilizing biological, mechanical and chemical filtration are recommended for most aquariums. Wet/dry filters sit beneath the tank and are often considered the best system of filtration. Back filters hand on the outside of the aquarium and pull water from the aquarium and run it through both a filter fiber and activated carbon. Undergravel filters draw water down through the gravel. Back filters in combination with undergravel filters also achieve all three types of filtration.
-Most types of gravel will work for a freshwater system. A gravel is calcareous (containing calcium) is recommended for marine systems although it is not recommended for fresh water systems that require a low pH. The gravel should be 2-3 inches thick on top of the undergravel filter to provide the correct filtering capacity of the aquarium.
-There are many different styles and sizes of air pumps that can be used for aquariums. The size of the air pump depends upon the size of the aquarium in use. Standard air-line tubing can be found in all aquarium shops. An air stone should be placed at the end of the tubing and placed in the airlift tubes. This will provide air and circulation to your aquarium and will also help the undergravel filter to operate normally. Powerhead pumps also help to circulate water and some are equipped with a venturi that helps to aerate.
-If there are variances in the temperature of the water it can lead to the demise of all the animal life. A constant temperature is therefore highly recommended. Tropical aquariums do well at temperatures of 73 to 82F. The correct heater size is determined by the amount of water in the aquarium. Normally a heater should be 3-5 watts for every gallon. Tanks greater than 50 gallons tend to retain heat and only need 3 watts per gallon. Using two smaller heaters creates a redundancy that ensures survival of the tank if one heater fails.
-The aquarium should be covered at all times. The covers reduce evaporation and also keep the fish from jumping out of the aquarium. Most reflectors or hoods are made of plastic or stainless steel. If you have a saltwater aquarium the hood should be a noncorrosive material. It is advisable to choose a hood with a florescent lamp. Lighting can be very important depending on the type of life in your aquarium. Some planty and saltwater life require intense amounts of light for survival. Others do not.
Prior to set up, it is recommended to rinse both the acrylic cylinder and the reef sculpture in freshwater to remove any dust particles or packing material residue. This will ensure your tank is clean and ready to be filled with water. Do not attempt to lift the aquarium full or partially full of water, and do not attempt to lift the aquarium by the acrylic dry tube. Please read all safety precautions and assembly instructions before performing the initial set-up procedures.
Safety Precautions
To safeguard against injury, basic precautions are necessary and should be observed. Please read all safety instructions before attempting to operate or conduct maintenance of any kind to your aquarium.
Assembly
I. Carefully unpack your aquarium by removing all of the protective shipping materials and set aside the top foam insert which contains the necessary components for initial assembly. Gently lift the aquarium out of the box by placing one hand beneath the decorative surround, and one hand on the top surround.
II. Remove the decorative top surround and set aside. Remove the screw from the base of the light fixture and lift the light fixture and acrylic lid up and to the side for easy access to the inside of the aquarium. Remove the foam insert and any protective packing material from the inside of the aquarium. To ensure that all the packing material residue and dust is removed from the tank, we recommend you rinse the reef sculpture in freshwater prior to set-up and before filling.
III. Remove the Duetto 100 submersible power filter from the foam insert and from its manufacturer's box. Our design has allowed for the filter to be inserted inside the reef sculpture as well as a submersible aquarium heater, if necessary. Place the filter inside the reef sculpture as shown in the Quick Set-Up Guide, and feed the electrical cord down the center of the acrylic dry tube, where the cord for the light is located. Pull the cord out from the bottom of the surround and run through the cord cutout on the bottom of the surround. To insert a submersible heater (sold separately), slide into the reef cavity next to the filter as shown in the quick setup guide, and feed the cord through the acrylic drytube. For operational and temperature regulation information, refer to the heater manufacturer's manual. Note that this system is designed for use with a Stealth 25 watt aquarium heater* only. (Heater must be completely submerged) *Use of any other heater is not advised and may result in damage to the aquarium, and injury.
IV. Place the aquarium back on the decorative base, and route the cords through the hole in the base as shown in the quick setup guide.
Filling Your Aquarium
I. Decide where your aquarium will be displayed by finding a sturdy, level surface near an electrical outlet. Be sure the structure supporting the aquarium will be able to withstand the weight once the aquarium is filled with water. When filled, your aquarium with its contents will weigh about 50 pounds. If you desire your aquarium to be near a window, be sure it is in an indirect path of the sun. Move your unfilled aquarium to the desired location and position it accordingly, ensuring that it is level. IMPORTANT! Do not lift the aquarium by the single dry tube. Damage to the aquarium may occur. Do not plug any of the electrical cords into an outlet until all set-up procedures are completed. Important! When you begin to fill your aquarium with the necessary components, such as the moist "live" sand, the synthetic sea salt and filtered water, avoid spilling any of these materials down the center of the reef and dry tube where electrical cords are present. This will cause leaks and immediate damage to the electrical and lighting systems as well as the possibility of producing electric shock when plugged in.
II. If you desire to maintain a salt water environment, it is necessary to empty the sand (if purchased) into the bottom of the aquarium by spreading it evenly around the reef structure. Do not get the sand on the acrylic wall, as this will cause visible scratches and blemishes to the acrylic. If you choose to maintain a fresh water environment, do not add the sand or synthetic sea salt. You will need to purchase gravel or substrate from your local aquarium dealer.
III. Next, fill your tank with purified or filtered water to about 1/2" below the top of your aquarium. Avoid splashing any water inside the dry tube or near the light bulb socket. Make sure the filter remains inside the reef and is submerged. Reversed osmosis filtered water can be purchased at most grocery stores or aquarium supply centers. If you are unable to obtain the filtered water, you may use tap water; however, discuss the required amounts of de-chlorinator to use with your local aquarium supply center.
IV. If you are maintaining a salt water aquarium, slowly add between 1/2 and 3/4 of the 5 gallon pre-packed synthetic salt into your aquarium, and stir the water gently with a non-metal and non-abrasive device to help dissolve any large salt particles. Check the salinity using a salinity meter. The recommended salinity for your tank should be approximately 1.020. Let your aquarium run for 24 hours and verify the salinity before introducing any fish. You may need to adjust the salinity.
V. Carefully slide the clear acrylic lid back over the top of the aquarium and affix the light fixture back on the dry tube. Replace the screw at the base of the light fixture. Once the filter is plugged into the outlet, it may take several minutes for the water to run through the filter and create a visible water flow. The flow rate and positioning of the rotating outlet may need to be adjusted so that it gently breaks the top of the water line. This will help provide glitter lines when the light is turned on, as well as provide proper aeration. It is recommended to allow the system to run and circulate for a minimum of 24 hours before adding any fish. Refer to the manufacturerÕs manual for additional information about your filtration system.
